According to surfline.com:
1-2 feet ankle to knee high w/ occasional 3ft and poor-fair conditions. Few good corners with the right board.
Board: Shaka
Break: Mission Beach Jetty
Time in water: about an hour
Waves caught: 6 0r 7
Fun day, first time out in the new spring suit. Need to work out a good solution for my car key. The new suit has neither loop nor pocket, so I strung it on a shoestring around my waist. Works, except the key digs into my side and I'm afraid it'll put a hole in the suit. I might try putting a pocket in, use up the last of my neo-rez.
I'm definately developing more control. I was using my foot to steer back and forth a few times. A month ago, I felt like I was having to learn to surf all over again. Now it's obvious I'm just picking up what I already know.
Sunday, June 24, 2007
Thursday, June 21, 2007
8 am
Surfline: 1-2 feet, ankle to knee high and poor conditions. Small, weak, crumbly waves. Mostly around the knee high range or less with maybe a lucky thigh high peak from time to time. Best for a longboard. Some surface lump and bump to it as well.
A weak mix of SW and SSE swells along with a touch of NW windswell for small waves across the region. Surf is tiny and nearly flat for many spots, looks like a good day for a beginner.
Board: Shaka
Break: Mission Beach Jetty
Time in water: about 45 minutes
Waves caught: 2
Beers drunk last night: 3
Hangover: none
I woke up still feeling exhausted. Not sure why. I had planned to go surfing after work yesterday, around 5 pm, but my arms and back still felt like I had just gone out. I checked the surf report, it said stay at home, so I did.
Trouble was, I still really wanted to go. So I got up this morning, looked out my window at a dismal marine layer that normally would send me back to bed, drank my coffee, and headed out.
The waves were indeed flat, with chaotic sets and waves rolling on top of one another. But what the hell, I came all the way out here. While I was suiting up, I saw another guy I sorta recognized, maybe from high school. He was a big guy with long blond dreadlocks. For a little while, we were the only two out there, and he annoyed me by catching wave after wave. Meanwhile, if I spot a wave at all, I paddle and fail to catch it. Mister Dreads over there just serves to highlight the fact that I can't really blame bad conditions for not catching waves, just my lack of skill. Asshole.
A weak mix of SW and SSE swells along with a touch of NW windswell for small waves across the region. Surf is tiny and nearly flat for many spots, looks like a good day for a beginner.
Board: Shaka
Break: Mission Beach Jetty
Time in water: about 45 minutes
Waves caught: 2
Beers drunk last night: 3
Hangover: none
I woke up still feeling exhausted. Not sure why. I had planned to go surfing after work yesterday, around 5 pm, but my arms and back still felt like I had just gone out. I checked the surf report, it said stay at home, so I did.
Trouble was, I still really wanted to go. So I got up this morning, looked out my window at a dismal marine layer that normally would send me back to bed, drank my coffee, and headed out.
The waves were indeed flat, with chaotic sets and waves rolling on top of one another. But what the hell, I came all the way out here. While I was suiting up, I saw another guy I sorta recognized, maybe from high school. He was a big guy with long blond dreadlocks. For a little while, we were the only two out there, and he annoyed me by catching wave after wave. Meanwhile, if I spot a wave at all, I paddle and fail to catch it. Mister Dreads over there just serves to highlight the fact that I can't really blame bad conditions for not catching waves, just my lack of skill. Asshole.
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
9:30 am, and later around 4 pm
According to Surfline.com:
2-3 ft.+ - knee to chest high d fair - conditions.
Sectiony, low tide lines with some pick off corners that could use more tide.
High tide at 2:28 pm, 3.80 high
Board: Shaka
Break: Mission Beach Jetty
Time in water: about an hour
Waves caught: 5 or 6
Beers drunk last night: 5
Hangover: slight
So it was a good day in the water. The waves were small, but with a decent shape. My form is coming back to me, and I popped up without any thought today. No more one-knee half-assery.
After about an hour, the waves flattened out, so I took off, tired anyway.
After lunch, I took my old jacket to Play-it-Again Sports on Pacific Beach and traded it in. I like the jacket, but last time I used it regularly I weighed maybe 200 lbs. I weighed in today at 238 lbs, which sucks ass. So anyway, I picked up a used spring suit for 13 bucks on trade. It's a shortlegged tanktop kind.
After that, I bought some comic books, then headed back to the jetty to try out the new suit. When I put it on (a bit tight), I realized that I had no place to put my car key. No loop or pocket. So I decided, what the hell, I'll just leave my car unlocked. I also knew this was a bad idea, not so much because somebody might steal my stuff, but because I knew I might lock the door by habit, with the key inside.
So I focused on not doing this, and then did it anyway.
Feeling like an asshole, I walked over to this guy sitting on my Cherokee. I told him that I had locked my keys in my car, and could I borrow his phone? he laughed, and told me that he was waiting for a locksmith because he had lost his key in the water. So I hung around, but he wasn't too talkative. Neither am I, so the time went slow.
After the locksmith showed up and took care of the guy, he spent approximately ten seconds opening my door. I was charged $40 for this service, which I reckon works out to around $4 per second. Good work if you can get it.
Afterward, I came home, because with that kind of luck, I'm not risking my key anywhere near the water.
2-3 ft.+ - knee to chest high d fair - conditions.
Sectiony, low tide lines with some pick off corners that could use more tide.
High tide at 2:28 pm, 3.80 high
Board: Shaka
Break: Mission Beach Jetty
Time in water: about an hour
Waves caught: 5 or 6
Beers drunk last night: 5
Hangover: slight
So it was a good day in the water. The waves were small, but with a decent shape. My form is coming back to me, and I popped up without any thought today. No more one-knee half-assery.
After about an hour, the waves flattened out, so I took off, tired anyway.
After lunch, I took my old jacket to Play-it-Again Sports on Pacific Beach and traded it in. I like the jacket, but last time I used it regularly I weighed maybe 200 lbs. I weighed in today at 238 lbs, which sucks ass. So anyway, I picked up a used spring suit for 13 bucks on trade. It's a shortlegged tanktop kind.
After that, I bought some comic books, then headed back to the jetty to try out the new suit. When I put it on (a bit tight), I realized that I had no place to put my car key. No loop or pocket. So I decided, what the hell, I'll just leave my car unlocked. I also knew this was a bad idea, not so much because somebody might steal my stuff, but because I knew I might lock the door by habit, with the key inside.
So I focused on not doing this, and then did it anyway.
Feeling like an asshole, I walked over to this guy sitting on my Cherokee. I told him that I had locked my keys in my car, and could I borrow his phone? he laughed, and told me that he was waiting for a locksmith because he had lost his key in the water. So I hung around, but he wasn't too talkative. Neither am I, so the time went slow.
After the locksmith showed up and took care of the guy, he spent approximately ten seconds opening my door. I was charged $40 for this service, which I reckon works out to around $4 per second. Good work if you can get it.
Afterward, I came home, because with that kind of luck, I'm not risking my key anywhere near the water.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
