Thursday, June 21, 2007

8 am

Surfline: 1-2 feet, ankle to knee high and poor conditions. Small, weak, crumbly waves. Mostly around the knee high range or less with maybe a lucky thigh high peak from time to time. Best for a longboard. Some surface lump and bump to it as well.
A weak mix of SW and SSE swells along with a touch of NW windswell for small waves across the region. Surf is tiny and nearly flat for many spots, looks like a good day for a beginner.

Board: Shaka
Break: Mission Beach Jetty
Time in water: about 45 minutes
Waves caught: 2
Beers drunk last night: 3
Hangover: none

I woke up still feeling exhausted. Not sure why. I had planned to go surfing after work yesterday, around 5 pm, but my arms and back still felt like I had just gone out. I checked the surf report, it said stay at home, so I did.

Trouble was, I still really wanted to go. So I got up this morning, looked out my window at a dismal marine layer that normally would send me back to bed, drank my coffee, and headed out.

The waves were indeed flat, with chaotic sets and waves rolling on top of one another. But what the hell, I came all the way out here. While I was suiting up, I saw another guy I sorta recognized, maybe from high school. He was a big guy with long blond dreadlocks. For a little while, we were the only two out there, and he annoyed me by catching wave after wave. Meanwhile, if I spot a wave at all, I paddle and fail to catch it. Mister Dreads over there just serves to highlight the fact that I can't really blame bad conditions for not catching waves, just my lack of skill. Asshole.

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